Unravelling Reactivity: The Power of Counterconditioning and Desensitisation

Techniques like counterconditioning and desensitisation can help create a new, positive association with whatever your dog is worried about.

Much of my behavioural work involves supporting fearful and anxious dogs. Whether they're worried about people, other dogs, vet visits, or car journeys, these fears can make life challenging for them—and for you. It is important to understand that your dog isn't being naughty or stubborn; their reactions are emotional responses to something they're genuinely worried about.

..
But don't worry, there's ways to help! Techniques like counterconditioning and desensitisation can help create a new, positive association with whatever your dog is worried about. Let's take a look at how these two methods can help your dog become more content and relaxed around things they were previously worried about.

Understanding Counterconditioning

Counterconditioning is a technique used to change a dog's emotional response to something they are worried about. The aim is to shift a dog's fearful reaction towards a more positive and relaxed state. It involves associating the scary stimulus with something that elicits an incompatible motivational state or physical response. For example, if a dog is afraid of other dogs, you can pair the presence of a dog with a positive stimulus such as food that elicits a pleasurable response. This process helps to create a new association where the once-feared stimulus now triggers a positive emotional response in the dog.

Combining Counterconditioning and Desensitisation

When using counterconditioning on its own, the fear can be overwhelming, making it difficult to change a dog's emotional response. Therefore, it is often paired with desensitisation, a method involving gradual exposure to a fear-inducing stimulus at a low intensity. This intensity is slowly increased over time, aiming to reduce the dog's fear response gradually and effectively.

If counterconditioning and desensitisation are done correctly, the dog learns to associate good things with the feared stimulus, gradually reducing their fearful response in exchange for a more positive expectation.

Jean Donaldson’s Open Bar/Closed Bar Technique

Jean Donaldson's open bar/closed bar technique is a great method for counterconditioning. When the scary thing shows up, it's time for a food party—food keeps flowing freely, like an open bar. You're essentially throwing a feast for your dog. Importantly, when the bar is open, your dog's behaviour doesn't matter, the dog doesn't need to do anything specific. Food is given no matter how your dog reacts to the scary thing. If food is a strong enough motivator, your dog will start linking the presence of the scary thing with getting food. Then, when the scary thing goes away or stops, you close the bar—no more food. The party's over, and nothing else happens. This method helps your dog build a positive association between something scary and something pleasant (food), gradually reducing their fear over time..

Maximising Learning for Successful Counterconditioning

Here are my top ten tips for how you can maximise learning and set a clear context for a successful counterconditioning session with your dog.

1. Distinctiveness and Novelty

Creating distinctiveness and novelty can significantly increase the amount of learning that occurs. This contributes to the creation of "sticky learning," a term coined by Emma Lee to describe lasting and impactful learning experiences. This distinctiveness and novelty helps us to push back against previous learning. Consider different ways you can create a distinct and clear context. For example, if a dog typically reacts when wearing a specific collar or harness, introducing a new or different harness can establish a new learning context. Dogs are very good at distinguishing between different harnesses, which helps facilitate the process of creating a new association. Similarly, if you consistently wear the same coat or pair of shoes, try wearing something that is novel. This will help to create a different context, which will maximise the amount of learning that will take place.

2. Contiguity and Contingency

Learning depends on contiguity (the closeness in time or space between two events) and contingency (one stimulus reliably predicting another). The dog needs to be aware that the good stuff (food) is ONLY available because of the presence of something scary. The timing of the food presentation is crucial for creating a strong positive association.

3. First Pairings are the Most Important

Research suggests that the first few pairings of stimuli are the most important. Also, the type of food used (the Unconditioned Stimulus) can significantly affect the strength of learning. High-value food, like juicy steak, will create a stronger association than less appealing food, like kibble.

4. Clarity

Choose an environment that is relatively quiet and predictable for the first set of learning trials. The aim is to reduce as many confounding variables as possible to create a clear association between the appearance of a scary thing and food.

5. Vista Not Panoramas

Consider the environment and vista used. Using big open spaces can make it more difficult for the dog, as the scary thing might be in view for a long time.

6. Short Sessions

Keep your initial sessions short—just a couple of minutes each. Also, give your dog a little break or rest in between trials. If you have a car, it can serve as a great portable safe space between trials. Counterconditioning is not a long, drawn-out process. Create your clean setup, conduct your counterconditioning trials, and then go home. Let your dog sleep; during sleep, they will process and consolidate all their new learning.

7. Distance

Create a suitable distance when the dog feels safe and does not feel fearful or worried about the scary thing. You might like to check out a few areas you might like to use whilst your dog is not with you. Look at how you can create a suitable distance and what you can use in the environment to create a barrier if needed. How much distance do you think your dog needs? If you are not sure, create more distance than you think.

8. Time of Day

Pick your time carefully—when is it quietest or busiest? Identify times you really need to avoid. Visit the area a couple of times a day at different times to determine the best time to take your dog.

9. Avoid Clickers and Marker Words

When counterconditioning you do not need to use a clicker or marker word. The dog receiving food is not dependant on offering any behaviour. Simply create an association between the appearance of a scary thing and food.

10. Keep Moving

Some dogs struggle to stay stationary and may find it difficult to sit. Additionally, standing still might signal to your dog that something scary is about to appear. To counter this, keep your body relaxed and soft, breathe calmly, and keep moving together.

By carefully combining counterconditioning and desensitisation, you can begin to effectively change a dog's emotional response to something they find fearful. When applied correctly, these techniques can lead to significant improvements in your dog's emotional well-being, positively affecting their behaviour and making life more enjoyable and less stressful for both you and your dog.